Kraellin
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i dont recall if i tried to do this before, so, there may be an old thread out there with something similar to this. what i'd like to do here is start a collection of .jpg's that folks have actually used to make .exr's which they then imported into the lighting environment.
the reason for this is that it's not very practical for FF to allow custom lighting environments (LE) to be uploaded into the library. the biggest barrier to that is copyrights. someone slips in a copyrighted image made into an LE and we've then got legal woes. however, there is no reason we cant start our own library of .jpg's that we convert into .exr's and use ourselves. thus, the reason for this thread. images used shld be as follows: 1. small and with an aspect ratio of 2 to 1, meaning something like 400 x 200, 200 x 100, 500 x 250 pixels and with a resolution of no more than about 300 ppi. this is just a general guideline. those with faster computers may not have difficulty with larger images. they do not have to be 2 to 1. i've used 400 x 400, but in general, 2 to 1 works best. orient your image to give the best use the LE sphere. 2. images shld NOT be copyrighted or, if they are copyrighted, then permissions need to have been granted for use in this manner. to keep this simple, if you post an image here for use in the LE, you are also giving full permission to use it anywhere and in any manner and not just within the LE of FF. so, dont post it if you dont want it to show up in youtube or somewhere else! my purpose for the thread is still to collect good .jpg's to make good .exr's to make good LE's, but it would be somewhat silly to try to regulate a copyrighted image posted here to only this use. 3. NO objectionable material. 'objectionable' here will be per the rules and guidelines of the forum as laid out by filter forge and their representatives. and, 'objectionable' remains at the discretion of the FF team. 4. any person posting an image here is hereby giving permission to use said image un-reservedly. that means, if you post an image here you are giving anyone and everyone permission to use that image, without compensation of any kind to yourself or your assigns, for any and all works produced using that image. in simple terms, if you post it, others can use it and you are entitled to nothing for having done so. 5. images from 'stock photo' libraries and other such repositories are fine, provided that permissions have been granted and particularly granted for royalty free use. DO NOT grab something off a stock photo site thinking that all those are freebies. they arent! the same applies to any other site on the internet. just because it's on the internet, does not mean it's royalty free and public domain and so forth. 6. dont make this a pain in the arse for the FF team. they've got better things to do than try to trace copyrights and see who is and isnt violating such. check your copyrights and permissions BEFORE posting! let's not make extra work for the folks that are working on building a better FF! 7. DO NOT use celebrity images! there is a whole area of legal crap you can get into on this one and again, we dont want to make this a headache for FF. 8. DO NOT use images of people unless you have obtained something on the order of a release from that person to use that image. this is similar to the celebrity issue. 9. test your images first. change your .jpg into an .exr and import it into the FF LE and see if it works and is worth having in the library. then post the .jpg. 10. i dont believe .exr is currently an allowed file format to upload here to the forums, at least not currently. it might be nice if it were, but i doubt it would display. so, use .jpg's so that we can all see the image first before we download it and try it out for ourselves. this keeps it simple. ok, enough rules ![]() If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 6, 2007 12:55 pm | ||||||||
onyXMaster
Posts: 350 |
Well-known light probes by Paul Debevec and/or people from USC:
http://www.debevec.org/Probes/ http://gl.ict.usc.edu/Data/HighResProbes/ We wrote Paul asking for a permission to use them, since they are copyrighted, but if I recall correctly -- got no response. Try writing Paul yourself -- maybe you'll be more lucky than we were ![]() P.S. HDRShop is a nice utility to convert between .hdr/.pfm and Mirrored Ball Closeup/Mirrored Ball Closeup/Light Probe/Cubic Cross/Cubic separated/Latitude-Longitude formats. |
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Posted: November 6, 2007 1:19 pm | ||||||||
onyXMaster
Posts: 350 |
Please note that the images above are COPYRIGHTED and you MUST obtain the copyright holder's permission to use them -- do not resubmit them here.
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Posted: November 6, 2007 1:21 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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thanks, onyx. i just downloaded version 1 of HDRshop.
If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 6, 2007 1:56 pm | ||||||||
ronviers
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It would be nice if someone posted an image of the inside of a church or cathedral with light beams coming through the colored glass windows.
@ronviers |
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Posted: November 6, 2007 2:34 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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ok, i saved out an image from Ronvier's 'Birth of an Orb' and sized it down to 400 x 200 and rotated it 90 degrees, saved it as a .jpg and then renamed it to an .exr. i then imported it into FF's HDRI import to make a lighting environment of it. attached is the image used.
the render time shld be under 10 minutes on this one. ![]() If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 6, 2007 9:43 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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and here's a screenshot of how it looks once imported.
these wont necessarily be stellar examples of lighting environments and may only work well in certain filters, but i wanted to show some examples and also to show that texture filters can be a great source of lighting environments. ron's orb filter is a texture filter and seems well suited to this and since it's such a stellar filter, i thought i'd make this the first one. ![]() If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 6, 2007 9:49 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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the reason i rotated ron's orb picture is because of the light area at the bottom of the filter. rotated back normally, this would have presented horizontal lines in the lighting environment, which would have stayed as a light area along the bottom of the LE.
If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 6, 2007 9:53 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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Posted: November 6, 2007 10:37 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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make sure you click on the image first before saving it to your harddrive. saving it without doing this will give you a smaller file size.
If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 6, 2007 10:38 pm | ||||||||
jffe |
I'm not having any luck getting a real metallic *shine* happening with any of the .jpg images I am importing to use for the HDRI lighting. They have more than enough white area that they should get that same shine that the sunlight from the built-in light source images produces, but they simply do not. What could be causing that ?
jffe Filter Forger |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:01 am | ||||||||
ronviers
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I think it is because they are LDRI. When I try to use the ones I import they only go up to a brightness of about 120 before the colors really start washing out.
I wanted to mention that you can check the 'Remove Base' to remove the horizontal bottom section then choose 'New Image' from the FF menu and select 400x200 to save some time.
![]() ![]() @ronviers |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:10 am | ||||||||
ronviers
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Waiting on imports suck.
![]() @ronviers |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:19 am | ||||||||
jffe |
----Hmm, so how can that be compensated for ? Boost the brightness then resave the image ? Maybe it can't be entirely fixed up to standard HDRI level, but it must be able to be faked up 1/3 or 1/2 eh. ![]() jffe Filter Forger |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:23 am | ||||||||
ronviers
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I tried using PS to 'merge to HDR' using a RAW image that I just bump the brightness way up but it looked like crap. I think we may need the real thing to get good results.
![]() @ronviers |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:28 am | ||||||||
ronviers
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:31 am | ||||||||
ronviers
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:34 am | ||||||||
ronviers
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:36 am | ||||||||
ronviers
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I did on last night that took hours, I think it was 1200x600, and it did not end up looking any better than the 400x200 that I just posted.
![]() @ronviers |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:38 am | ||||||||
jffe |
I'd like to hear from the FF team about what can be done to make just normal low-fi jpegs look better when used for lighting, til then, we're probably wasting any time spent on them eh.
jffe Filter Forger |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 2:26 am | ||||||||
ronviers
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I think it's too soon to tell but I do know FF sets the bar high with the environments they provide. @ronviers |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 2:42 am | ||||||||
onyXMaster
Posts: 350 |
Rule #1 -- since the image you're trying to fake is a latitude-longitude map of a sphere, you should make the image symmetric against the middle axis. Imagine that left half (of the image having the 2:1 aspect ratio) is a front part of a metal ball, while the right part is a back one. Blindly stretching image to 2:1 aspect ratio will not improve quality -- you can load it as it is to get almost same results.
Rule #2 -- the image must be seamless in horizontal direction. Any seams will be perfectly visible under certain conditions (smooth curved surface, lighting orientation with visible seam facing towards eye). Rule #3 -- low noise. High noise (both color and luminance) will make resulting image look "dirty". Rule #4 -- if you're limited to LDR images, at least make sure there is enough dynamic range in them, use histogram tool in your favorite image processing software. LDR image with low dynamic range (i.e. too dark or too light) makes _very_ poor lighting. Rule #5 -- resolution of the image should be at least 400x200 WITHOUT scaling up. There is NO POINT to scale up a 200x100 image to 400x200. Don't use bicubic scaling when downscaling, especially for LDR images. It may introduce unnecessary artifacts in high-frequency zones, while quality improvement in low-frequence ones will be negligible. Rule #6 -- DO fake HDR if you can. It's hard stuff to do correctly, but drawing a sun/sunlit zones mask for a nature photo, along with doing some HDRShop multiplication might serve you well. I would also like to note, that Filter Forge lighting process outputs unclipped HDR images, so if you save the render into PFM/EXR formats (or floating-point TIFF if you love exotic things ![]() And please, do share quality imported environments (.ffenv files, located in "%APPDATA%\Filter Forge\My Environments") -- it will save other people a lot of time. I'm not sure if current upload limit will permit uploading resulting .ffenv files, but I'm sure you can poke Vlad on this ![]() |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 4:09 am | ||||||||
onyXMaster
Posts: 350 |
Take note that "rules" I mentioned in my previous posting are of purely technical origin and do not attempt to justify the aesthetical quality and applicability aspects of a certain lighting environment; I'll leave these to people that are more artistic than a geek like me (yes, I'm talking about you, people)
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Posted: November 7, 2007 4:12 am | ||||||||
Kraellin
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![]() that's excellent information, onyx. thank you! and going along with that, i used one of ronvier's other filters, his recent brushed stainless steel, to try to make an LE. but before using the image, which is quite bright and has little contrast high to low luminance, i added quite a bit of contrast to get the darks, darker, while retaining the brights. i do believe that made the LE better. i hadnt even thought about using the histogram, but will in the future. also, and i dont know if this will help at all, but you mentioned not using bicubic to resize. that's interesting and reminded me of an article i'd seen recently on retouchpro about a new type of resizing which retains the image quality while resizing. i'll look it up again and post the link. it's quite amazing and may be of use in LE's. also, you mentioned floating point .tiffs and got me wondering... could you use ANY image file type, like .tif or .png and simply change the file extension to .exr and use this for import or does it have to be .jpg's? and does having an alpha channel in a file type make any difference, because i was wondering about transparent parts of an image being used in the LE's? If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 9:10 am | ||||||||
Kraellin
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this is good to know, also. i wonder then, if kaleidoscope images wouldnt make for good LE's? perhaps with a bit of histogram adjustment... ? If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 1:24 pm | ||||||||
onyXMaster
Posts: 350 |
The alpha channel in the imported image is ignored -- only RGB data counts.
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Posted: November 7, 2007 2:32 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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ok, thanks, onyx. what about other file types and just changing the file extension? i've been using only .jpg's so far and they work fine, but was just wondering if i had to convert other types to .jpg's first.
If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 2:39 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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also, i've found that making high contrast, spherical gradients in psp or ps and using those can be quite useful. these arent necessarily the best for hdri, but they are useful for simulating gels (in theatre) or as if one were using colored lenses in photography. and you do want high contrast in these. they follow all of onyx's rules and can work quite nicely for some applications.
i'll post one here that came out fairly well when used on one filter i've made. ![]() If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 2:42 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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Posted: November 7, 2007 2:45 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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you may notice in that last image that there was also a 2 and a 2a and i didnt even try the 2b i had prepared. they were not high enough contrast and basically just tinted the entire filter red. the 2c gives some variance and contrast in the lighting.
If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 2:47 pm | ||||||||
jffe |
I guess it depends on a lot of factors, I went back and tried out a couple I had made, and they looked o.k. on some stuff, they just didn't really work overall like the built-in FF ones do. I really don't see spending/wasting a bunch of time on ones that are worse than the FF ones. At least not when you can buy some professional ones for under $100. That said, if there is a way to make a normal low-fi picture into a good HDRI lighting file, I would be 110% interested, I am just not seeing it, and I don't see how we can add a dynamic range that isn't just inherently there to begin with. Oh, and for the record, the ones I made that even work a little bit, were made with FF, entirely in FF, using FF's lighting, so that's almost cheating like that ha-ha.
jffe Filter Forger |
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Posted: November 7, 2007 3:22 pm | ||||||||
Kraellin
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ok, here's a tutorial on making HDRI images along with some good examples of the look from that author: http://stuckincustoms.com/2006/06/06/548/ . found that link on retouchpro.com and also posted some of the links onyx gave here, over there in that same thread.
If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 8, 2007 9:13 am | ||||||||
onyXMaster
Posts: 350 |
You can use any file format that Filter Forge supports in "File->Open Image..." dialog.
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Posted: November 8, 2007 11:33 am | ||||||||
Kraellin
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ok, thanks, onyx!
![]() If wishes were horses... there'd be a whole lot of horse crap to clean up!
Craig |
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Posted: November 8, 2007 2:10 pm |
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